Three Tips to Help You When Shooting Handheld

Films are rarely without camera movement. To create a moving frame, the camera gets thrown on dolly tracks, on cranes, and even on shoulders for handheld operation.

That means popping the camera off the sturdy base of a tripod and into the hands of an operator. For the camera assistant, this creates a few issues that you need to be able to keep up with.

After working many films shot exclusively handheld, I came up with three tips to help you for those times where the camera operator turns and says, “Load me up!”

Shooting with a handheld camera is harder physically and mentally. Mentally, your job is intensified because the camera is now as dynamic as the subject which makes pulling focus more difficult. Physically, you have to be lifting the camera quite frequently as well as guiding your and the operators’ body through a scene.

How to Make Shooting Handheld Easier

These tips are focused on practical issues that have arisen for me over the course of many shoots.

1. Minimize the Time the Camera is Up

Some camera systems are obnoxiously heavy (RED One, I’m looking at you!) while others are fairly light. But even the lighter rigs still wear on an operator’s shoulder after hours of handheld work.

As a camera assistant, minimize the time the camera has to be on an operator’s shoulder by putting it on at the last possible moment and taking it off immediately after a take has been cut.

This is especially crucial if you are shooting long takes or action-heavy tracking shots.

There’s a story of a top-tier director of photography (DP) who operated his own camera handheld and whenever the take was cut he would let go of the camera. He expected the camera assistant to make sure it didn’t fall to the ground. That’s a bit extreme — and irresponsible — but it proves a larger point: it’s the camera assistants job to have the camera between takes.

2. Be Mindful of Cables Connected to the Camera

Not every production can afford wireless systems for their cameras. Especially on digital productions, you’ll be dealing with an array of cables going to, from and through the camera.

Be careful of these during handheld scenes that you nor the camera operator trip over them.

If you are a 2nd AC, you should slate the scene and then wrangle the cable. This takes away one less worry from the 1st AC.

If you are the 1st AC, try and find a PA who is willing to wrangle the cable. It’s not a tough job — you just need a pair of hands to hold the cable off the ground so nobody trips on it.

If you can’t find anybody to wrangle the cable, throw the cables over your shoulder or hold them in the hand you aren’t pulling focus with making sure that they don’t fall on the ground near the operator’s feet.

3. Keep a Light Touch on the Follow Focus

A major problem on low budget productions shooting handheld or Steadicam is they don’t often shell out the bucks to afford a remote follow focus. While it’s not as bad in handheld situations as Steadicam, it still complicates pulling focus.

One issue in particular is affecting the camera operators “flow” while pulling on the follow focus. Especially if the follow focus is sticky or cheap, you may have to put a lot of effort into turning the disc and accidentally affect camera movement in doing so.

To combat this, try your best to have a light touch on the follow focus. On longer lenses, even the slightest bump from your hand onto the rig can cause a major shift in the frame.

A Graceful Struggle

Shooting handheld is difficult for camera assistants, operators, and even talent. You will, at times, find yourself in odd positions or rushing to catch up with the camera.

Be mindful of your surroundings and always make sure there is enough clearance in the space you’re shooting for you, the camera, and the operator. And, most importantly, always have a firm grip on the camera before and after takes — they don’t get along very well with gravity.

P.S.

None of these tips help with pulling focus because it’s a subject I want to tackle in the future. In the meantime I will say that pulling focus while handheld is a rewarding, if not stressful, experience. The best thing you can do to help is become a master at guessing distances between two moving subjects.

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About the author:

About the author: Evan Luzi is the editor and founder of The Black and Blue as well as a freelance camera assistant.

You can learn more about him or follow him on Twitter and Google+.

This Isn't About One Gig. It's About Launching Your Career.
  • Anonymous

    Great tips! This is why I love having a focus whip, it allows me to pull focus without disturbing framing.

    As far as grabbing the camera after the take is done, the key is being able to lift it from any angle. This means you might have to hit the gym to work out those arms!

  • http://www.theblackandblue.com/ Evan

    Thanks Eric!

    I find that even with a focus whip, I sometimes am disturbing the frame of a camera operator. Plus, I plain just don’t like using whips. They feel weird to me and I’ve always had a hard time getting used to them.

    You’re right about being able to life the camera from any angle. Though if you’re lucky, you’ll work with a DP who is willing to hang on for a couple extra seconds for you to run around him and grab it off his shoulder.

    I know on every film that was shot exclusively or mostly handheld, it has felt like one long trip to the gym! Especially with those RED cameras, you get some good workouts in

  • Anonymous

    I like to rent a RED with some lenses and mount some rails on it so I can do curls and other such arm lifts. It helps me remember why I am working out.

  • Adam Conlon

    Another great article! I’d like to add a point to tip number 1 – I prefer to pull focus from the dumb side as it makes passing and receiving the camera to the operator much easier. Also, it is most important to ‘spot’ the operator, especially if they happen to be walking backwards. Keep your left arm behind the operators back in case of any trips or stumbles.

    Looking forward to reading your tips for judging distance between two dynamically moving objects. My favourite for closer focus estimations (where focus is much more critical) is to stand at the film plane and before the shot, put your outstretched arm and hand straight in front of you. Most (probably 99 out of a 100) peoples full arm span is the same as their height, so knowing I’m 5’10″, I know my outstretched arm (remember to subtract half the distance of your torso shoulder to shoulder) is roughly 2’5″. Once you’ve done this it becomes much easier to judge the difference between lets say 3′ and 3’3″

    Keep up the good work. Love all the tips, discussions and general camera assisting geekery I find here!

  • http://www.theblackandblue.com/ Evan

    Haha I talked to someone once on this blog about doing a RED camera workout video. I still like that idea!

    Make sure you don’t forget the super heavy RED batteries to throw on there too though — or save them for the double time portion of the workout

  • http://www.theblackandblue.com/ Evan

    Thanks Adam! Pulling dumb side is a good way to make the camera easy to get up and over the shoulder without worrying about banging the operator’s head! I do the same thing when I’m able to.

    Your arm tip — about using it as a measurement tool — is smart and one that I think most AC’s put in their repertoire.

    Thank you again for the kind words, glad you’re enjoying the site! hope you stick around longer :P

  • http://twitter.com/HumanGobo Jeremy Bernatchez

    I’ve gotta get on writing something up for that vid :)

  • http://www.theblackandblue.com/ Evan

    I’m telling you man, if you make it, I’ll put a post up on here about it! I think it’d be great

  • Markewilliams

    Stomach crunches and back workouts. It’s the lower back that gives out first.

  • http://www.theblackandblue.com/ Evan

    Tell me about it. I’m still pretty young and the day after a RED commercial gig, I was super sore in my back