Marking the Camera on Dolly to Keep Shots in Focus

Setting Up Dolly Track

Placing the camera on a dolly and track means you’re going to have a good time pulling focus. Besides being fun, dolly shots can also be very challenging. Successfully pulling focus on shots like these will depend on the consistency of a good dolly grip, but also how well you placed focus marks.

Before you lay down marks, you need a reference point on the dolly itself.

A good place to do this is usually the bolt in the center of one of the wheels on the side you’ll be pulling focus on. If that is still tough for you to see, place a piece of paper tape on top of the wheel or somewhere on the dolly that can act as a point of reference.

Basic Dolly Moves

The most basic dolly move is a push in or pull out where there is a starting position and a stopping position. In this situation, you obviously want marks at the bookends of the move. If the lens is wide enough, you probably don’t need more than that. But if you have the time, or you are pulling with very shallow depth of field, having intermittent focus marks is useful.

Remember that depth-of-field operates on the principal that the closer a subject gets, the shallower depth-of-field gets. So you should place more of your in between marks closer to the subject since there will be less DOF.

Basic Dolly Move Labeled

The dolly track is designated by white tape, while the marks are neon pink

For instance, if you are pushing into a landing point, you should have more focus towards the end of the move. If you are pulling out from a subject, most of your focus marks will be at the beginning of the move.

My personal preference is usually to have three in-between marks if I have the time. I place two in the closer half and one in the further away half. I wish I could tell you there is a scientific way of determining where to put them, but I usually just ask the dolly grip to start pushing me from the start of the move and I will stop at different points along the way.

Simply put, I eye it.

Adding More Numbers

More complicated dolly moves might end up having 3, 4 or even 5 different landing points at different times in the scene. This is where having different colored tape is really useful. I will use one color for the marks for the first “1 to 2″ move, then a different color for the 3 mark and so on and so forth.

It also helps to write on the piece of tape the numbered order in which the marks are hit. The important thing to remember is not to out-mark yourself into oblivion. The goal is to keep things in focus, not turn the set into a game of Twister.

“Crab” Dolly

A crab dolly is when moving side-to-side perpendicular to a subject instead of towards or away from a subject. Generally speaking, these dolly moves are easier than pushing in or out, though there are times when they get complicated depending if you have to rack focus within the scene.

Use the same general guidelines as above and at the very least mark a “1″ and a “2.” Even though you are going side-to-side, often the camera operator is panning to compensate for the new angles so you will be slightly further away at parts of the dolly move and closer at other parts.

Tracking

A dolly can be used similarly to a Steadicam for tracking purposes. The most typical scenario is to have an actor walk towards the camera while it’s dollying backwards. There are also instances where a subject may walk alongside the dolly track while the camera is crab dollying to keep the subject in frame.

Unfortunately with these moves, it is hard to get marks since the movement of the camera is dependent on the movement within the scene by the talent. The best tactic is to use a laser pen to mark a pre-set distance in front of the camera (see below).

Other Techniques

In my time camera assisting, I’ve picked up on a few tricks that I’ve seen other camera assistants use. Some of them are “out there” while others are really ingenious. Here are the ones that I think are good to have in a repertoire:

The Lead Up

Sometimes it can be tough to see tape on the ground or there is no real way to gauge how fast a mark is approaching. This method helps you know not only where a mark is, but when you will be reaching it.

"The Lead Up" Dolly Technique

You take a long piece of colored tape and angle it starting far out from the tracks and into the mark. As you are approaching your mark on the dolly, you will be able to watch the tape “close in” on the mark and be able to pull focus appropriately.

The Laser Pen

This trick is best for when the dolly is used to track with a subject. You mount a laser pen to point a pre-selected distance on the ground in front of the dolly (i.e. 5 feet) so that you know when a subject is closer or further away than that distance at all times during a move.

The C-47 Hang

For those who have trouble recognizing their own marks while on the dolly and where exactly the reference point to them is, you can use a versatile C-47 to help you out by hanging it from the dolly. This acts as your reference so that when the C-47 hangs over the tape, you are on your mark.

What’s Your Method?

Dolly moves are one of those areas of camera assisting where every person will have their own way of doing things. They can be both challenging and a lot of fun if you know how to approach them right.

So what techniques do you use? Do you ride the dolly or walk alongside it? What kind of advice would you give for those who aren’t sure how to approach marking a dolly shot?

 

About the author:

About the author: Evan Luzi is the editor and founder of The Black and Blue as well as a freelance camera assistant.

You can learn more about him or follow him on Twitter and Google+.

This Isn't About One Gig. It's About Launching Your Career.
  • http://twitter.com/phil_jackson Phillip Jackson

    I’ve used and have seen people use the rope trick when the dolly is moving away from the subject. Tie a rope with knots or tape at specific distances and as long as the actor is cool with it, allow that to drag in front of them. Obviously this wouldn’t work for a full body shot but for the most part it works pretty well.

  • http://twitter.com/jamesdrakefilms James Drake

    Awesome. Never heard of the lead up method before. Very useful tip! Thanks!

  • http://www.theblackandblue.com/ Evan

    Nice, that’s a new one to me, thanks Phil!

    I have to wonder though, does the rope dragging become a sound issue?

  • http://www.theblackandblue.com/ Evan

    No problem! Works for me, it’s a good little trick

  • Dbailie36

    I find a laser pin to be valuable on a multitude of dolly shots. If it’s a complicated dance floor shot with several dolly positions, actors and actor positions I did something similar to your method of different colors for different positions except I would collaborate my marks with the color of the mark assigned to the actor. For example if the principal male lead is always red, then my marks at different points of the dolly position are red with the distance written on them. If the principal woman is blue than my mark is blue with the distance written on my mark. It’s a fast way of identifying what distance is for whom. It works well also if your on B camera and A camera is wide too wide to have marks on the floor.
    On a tracking shot of a non moving subject but a moving dolly I would run a piece of white tape the length of the track. Start at the end of the track and pull your tape say it’s 25 feet, write 25 feet on the tape, have the dolly grip push you to 15 feet from the subject to the camera write 15 feet so on until the last position. That way if you stop anywhere on the track you know the distance. Mark it every 5 feet or so depending on what lens your on. If you do this and all the set up is done for a 35mm and you run the take several times and you think it’s over and the director says as long as we are here lets throw the 150mm up, your actually already for far more critical focus without skipping a beat.

  • http://twitter.com/arrimaniac arrimaniac

    Nice to see you covered this topic! Unfortunately I don’t have the time to read it right now, but I definitely will come back to read the article. For me dolly shots (not all of them but some) are quite a challenge when pulling focus

  • http://www.theblackandblue.com/ Evan

    Some great tips! I’m glad you found this blog.. I feel like you have a lot of knowledge to part :)

    I particularly like your idea of taping the track even on a wide lens so you’re ready to go if they pop on a longer lens. So much of AC work, and getting great marks, is doing it quietly, efficiently, and being ready ASAP.

    Thanks again!

  • http://www.theblackandblue.com/ Evan

    No problem, it’ll be here to read :)

    Some dolly shots are challenging, others are a breeze. The best is a nice mix between the two — that’s when it becomes a lot of fun.

  • http://twitter.com/phil_jackson Phillip Jackson

    Depends on the kind of rope you use. We use light rope that’s similar in size to zip cord. It’s pretty silent unless the floor is rough.

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  • Bruno

    I found the difficulty with in/out dolly shots is keeping an eye on both your follow-focus/lens and the marks that you will have placed along the track. during that particularly hard part of the move, there is simply not enough time to switch between the two visually.

    So what I ended up doing was to have a finger on ’12 o’clock’ on the FF, another finger on my 1st mark on the FF ring, and keep my eyes on floor. That way as I saw the first mark approaching on the floor, I didnt need to look at the FF to anticipate hitting the mark, I could tell naturally the distance between my two fingers and i could time it so the 2 fingers were aligned when we did hit the mark. I hope that makes sense. We were on a 50mm at t1.4, tracking back a distance of about 20ft at roughly 4ft/sec so it was really tough and i needed to come up with something to assist during those first few seconds.